Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Fort Cochin, Kerala, India 8th-12th November 2011

After leaving Agra 3 hours later than scheduled we were only 2 hours late arriving in Kerala, south India. It was still a reasonable hour at 9.30am.

We were refreshed after our train sleeps x2 but glad to be stepping off the train after 40 odd hours!

We headed to the Tuk Tuk stand and bagged a driver to take us to our final destination. It took about 30 minutes to drive there and out driver was defiantly skillful in weaving through the traffic!

We found our accommodation which was a brand new backpackers. We stayed in a 6 bed dorm and were lucky enough for our entire stay to have no one else in the room with us! Binu the manager was awesome and helped us out a lot with our plans.

We went off to explore the town which was extremely cute. Slightly set up for tourists but still had its charm. We couldn't believe how clean the streets were however the tiny beach was a disappointment and filthy dirty! No sunbathing for me.

In India even though it isn't a religious requirement for a woman to cover up it is a cultural sensitivity. They advise women to wear clothing which covers the contours and curves of the female form. If anything i do it to prevent Indian men perving on me. However in Cochin i have the say the perving was at it's worst. Men will Lear at your chest just in case a slight movement will show a contour or the edge of a boob. They even stare when walking with their wives! It's quite unsettling. Western pornography is to blame as men will perceive any western woman as being 'up for it'.

The following day we decided to do a little Tuk Tuk tour of the area as there was quite a lot to see. It took around 3 hours. We went to St Francis Church which was just in the middle of restoration (it was definatly not safe to be inside!). We saw the manual fan's used to keep attendees cool on hot Sundays. Great invention.

We visited a Dutch Cathedral and then headed to Jew town. This place even had a street called Jew Street, it made Dave laugh! We went to a little museum which had some extremly old preserved murals on the walls which were beautiful. They even had some half finished ones too which had been preserved so you could see the workman ship. We also visited a Cochin Synagogue, a tiny building with not much in it.

Our Tuk Tuk driver unfortunately kept taking us to tourist tat shops and wen we walked in just for a browse we were met with pushy Indians offering us prices on things we just didn't want to buy! What would we do with a wardrobe! haha! He told us that if we visited just 5 shops the government would give his family 1kg of rice. I am all for supporting the community but i would rather just buy him a kilo of rice than constantly get harrased by Salesmen!

We found some really great cafes to laze away the day in. One was called Oy's and was our favorite breakfast spot. The other was Teapot which did the best cuppa i have had in a long while and the most amazing Death By Chocolate cake. One bit is never enough for me!

We thought we should book our on going trains before they got to booked up. The whole system was a joke and we were pretty much screwed for sleeper trains until December. We were initially supposed to get to Hyderabad (central India) to get a train back to Delhi but it was proving impossible to get a train there. Our Travel agent moved our trains to Goa which made it much easier to get to. There were still no trains but there was a 22 hour bus and as we had no other option we had to go with it. Worst part is that it's not a sleeper bus. It's a sit up bus. Another uncomfortable journey coming our way soon!

On our fourth day it was my Birthday. 26 years young! We decided to do something different than the usual lazing around. On waking up I opened my little present pile from Dave. I got a Twix, Toblarone, a pack of gum, a paint by numbers and a pack of UNO cards! Just what i wanted! Plus Dave now had to suffer my constant bugging to play UNO! We then headed to the little island next to Fort Cochi called Vypeen Island. We got the car ferry over which cost 2 rupees each (3p) and took less than 5 minutes! We then hopped on a local bus and headed to a secret little beach called Chenni Beach. There was no one around. perfect for a sneaky sunbath! After getting rather hot we decided to venture back and went out for a yummy home cooked tea and a giant piece of Death By Chocolate Birthday cake! YAY!! I have now had 3 consecutive Birthdays in 3 different countries!

We were looking forward to yet more relaxing in Goa and boarded the bus with gritted teeth!

Next Stop Palolem, Goa.............
To see our pictures from Kerela please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/KeralaIndia7thTo12thNovember2011#



Sunday, 20 November 2011

Agra India, 5th to 6th November 2011

After a 6 hour drive we arrived in Agra, we checked into our hotel and where once again treated to the biggest suite in the place!
We had no time to waste however and headed straight for the Taj Mahal in good time to watch the sunset. We arrived at the gate and realised that no cars are allowed within 3KM's of it as the pollution and heat do not treat it well. We bought our hugely over priced tourist tickets and waited for an electric bus to take us to the entrance. Once we where off the bus instantly we where hounded by touts and shop owners to buy cheap rubbish from them for stupid prices - obviously we refused.

We where them treated to a body search in separate male and female lines and I must say it was a little close to comfort! Even though there where thousands of people there the sight of the Taj Mahal is truly breath taking and you are able to find small corners where you can almost feel as if you have the place to yourself.

We walked around the grounds and viewed it from all angles, we decided to avoid the crowds who where close up to the building and find a quiet spot on the grass to watch it change colours with the fading light of the day- and even I have to say it was pretty romantic and I sneaked a kiss from Leanne.

The next morning we went to Agra fort, but it was a little disappointing but only in comparison to some of the other forts we had already seen. We still strolled in the grounds and enjoyed the views and the warmth of the morning sun - this was however briefly interrupted by the fact that we gave our driver a 50 pound tip and he said it was not enough!

We just laughed this off and made our way to the train station to wait for our 40 hour train to Southern India and the state of Kerela. After a really brief goodbye Girish was gone and we where on our own once again - it was sad that our experiences with him ended on a sour note but we still had a good time overall. Our next stop Fort Cochin.

To see our photos from Agra please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/AgraIndia5thTo6thNovember2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLHY9OjRxc61Xg#

Jaipur, India, 3rd to 5th November 2011

After a good nights sleep and a relatively short 4 hour drive on pretty straight roads, we arrived at Jaipur with renewed optimism that our tour was back on track.
We passed through the bustling city centre (full of traffic) and made our way out to the other side of the city past the water palace and fort to our hotel. We where shown a pretty decent hotel room (for Indian standards) only to be told this was not our room and we feared the worst - instead we where taken to the suite on the top floor, the room was excellent but far too big for our needs - we even struggled to see the TV from our bed!

So we relaxed and went to the rooftop restaurant to enjoy a free meal (we made the most of this) and watch the light show taking place at the fort.
The next morning I was fully back in the game so we hit the sight seeing hard. First was an Elephant ride up to the old fort high up on the hill/mountain side. The Elephants where cared for by the government so they where in really good health which made us feel good about riding them up to the fort. They where colourfully painted and fed and watered at each end of the track so they where in good spirits. It was quite a weird experience riding on the back of the biggest land mammal and it felt both very safe and also very unsafe at the same time! The only downside to the ride was the driver who kept hassling us for a tip even though there where signs everywhere telling people not to tip as the people received a good wage for the ride.

After this we looked around the fort and realised we had to get back down on our own! So we asked some staff at the fort and they showed us a path that kept crossing the Elephant track so we where dodging Elephants and their droppings all the way down. On the way we saw a bedraggled looking man with a wicker basket and a flute and inside he had 2 huge King Cobras who where mesmerised by the musical instrument.

Once back on flat ground we headed over to the water palace which was a retreat for the old royalty to escape the relentless summer heat of the desert. It was quite pretty but off limits and we had to look at it from the shore, so after 15 minutes in the sun we decided to move on to the next spot, the 'pink' palace. For me personally this was nothing great to look at, mainly because this was in the centre of the city and had been enveloped by stalls and beggars but Leanne enjoyed snapping it. After this we went for some lunch and a rest before taking our drivers advice and checking out a Bollywood film.

We where a little sceptical but decided to do it and we went to watch 'Ra-One' which was the latest blockbuster film and we where not disappointed at all. The cinema was immaculate and inside the screen was huge and while the film was on people laughed and cheered out loud when something good or naughty was happening on screen - there is even a half time interval for a toilet break! Although the movie was in Hindi we still understood what was going on and we didn't feel out of place at all.
We retired for the evening and rested up for our next stop Agra and the Taj Mahal.

To see our pictures from Jaipur please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/JaipurIndia3rdTo5thNovember2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCISosoigtMXWTw#

Udipur, India - 1st- 3rd November 2011


From Jodphur it was a horrible 8 hour drive to our next destination Udipur. Not only was it long it was rough! The roads were nothing more than dusty tracks not a bit of tarmac in sight. With the little car that we were in it was not the best of combinations. Poor Dave still wasn't right and was sleeping in the back but every time we hit a big bump i would look to see him wedged between the chairs.

When we finally arrived at our hotel we were starving luckily the hotel had a roof top restaurant which had a magnificent view over the lakes and the beautiful Udipur Palace. We had some western treats including chips and a jacket potato yummy!

Unfortunately the hotel wasn't what it seemed and we woke up covered in ants! We phoned our travel agent and we were swiftly moved to another hotel which was much better and had very comfortable beds!

We spent the day strolling around looking in the various tourist shops and buying odds and ends. The move with the hotels took up a lot of our time as even though it was just a couple of streets away from our original hotel the one way system meant a tricky half hour drive to reach it!

But we made the most of the time we had left. We also found a great cafe that sold beans on toast! Dave was in Heaven!

It seemed as just as we arrived it was time to leave again!

Next Stop Jaipur....

To see our pics from Udipur please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/UdipurIndia1stTo3rdNovember2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCNmO4eeg67PmbA#

Wednesday, 16 November 2011

Jodphur, India 31st October to 1st November 2011


Just a three hour drive from Pushkar was perfect for poor Dave as he still wasn't feeling to well. He slept in the back the whole way. We arrived at what looked like a half finished hotel and i put him to bed while i went our exploring with our driver Girish.

I was lunch time and Girish said he would take me to a restaurant that all the tourists love. I know full well that this means the food is not great and extremely over priced. So instead i asked him where he would eat for lunch. He looked baffled that a westerner who could afford much more would want to east in a local place. I explained to him that i preferred local places and the food was not fussy and tasted so much better. He laughed at me and was chuffed that i wanted to eat with him. We headed to an all Indian eatery and i stuck out like a saw thumb. I told him to order for me and again he looked shocked! He ordered 2 Thalis which is a common meal for locals. It basically a platter of all sorts of Curry's, lentils, Vegetables, yogurt, chapatis, rice and lime pickle. It was the best one i have ever eaten! I finished the lot too!

We then headed to Mehrangarh Fort which is a giant fort very famous in Jodpuhr. It was an amazing sight sitting right above the city. The Views from the top were spectacular. The entire city is coloured Blue 80% of the buildings are painted all different shades of blue. I did an audio tour to pass the time while Dave was sick in bed. It was actually very interesting. I was also very interesting to many Indian's I think i was asked to have my photo taken with people at least 10 times!

After the fort Girish took me for a treat - Makhania Lassie. This is a special local treat. It is a thick yogurt which tastes of lemon and lime. It was Delicious and i told Dave that the 3 hour drive from Pushkar would have been worth it just for that yummy treat!

I saw the town clock tower and then we headed back to the hotel. We spent the evening relaxing in the room and i chatted to my friend Anil about the upcoming wedding that me and Dave are going to in Punjab. Exciting stuff!

Next Stop Udipur...

To see our pics from Jodpur please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/JodpurIndia31stOctoberTo1stNovember2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCICv3Zfmr6SSyQE#

Pushkar, India, 29th to 31st October 2011


We arrived in Pushkar after a horrible 10 hour drive. Annoyingly just 30 minutes away from our hotel there was a road block due to an accident and we were forced to spend another hour and a half going around the houses on a diverted route!

Our driver Girish was great we chatted most of the way and he was telling us all sorts of story's about previous clients good and bad. The car was the perfect size and because there are only 2 of us it meant we could take turns having a sleep in the back. Air Con was defiantly a godsend Phew it was hot.

The first evening Dave wasn't feeling to well so we didn't venture far. We headed up to a roof top restaurant to get a great view over the Holy Lake. We ate Felafel's and pitta bread which was a nice change to Indian (not sick of it yet though i have to say!).

After a terrible nights sleep for Dave we decided it was best for him to spend the day in bed. Actually he didn't have much choice as the Delhi belly had caught up with him!


So i went out to explore the town. I had heard that Pushkar could be a bit pushy so i prepared myself by not taking much money out with me. I headed down to the lake and the touts must had seen me coming and immediately my shoes were removed, I had a Hindu priest on one arm and a metal plate with flower petals, red and yellow powder, rice and a hairy coconut in my hand. The Priest got me to repeat after him and finally added bright red Hindu spot, with his thumb, slap bang in the middle of my forehead. Before it dried he also added some rice! He tied a white and red band around my left wrist which is know as the famous Pushkar passport. Then the inevitable happened, he wanted money. Not just 100 Rupees either he said that if i didn't give him 1000 (nearly 20quid) Rupees for each member of my family that is alive then bad luck would come to them. I pretty much laughed in his face and asked if he thought i was stupid. I soon walked away from that one.

Next stop was a woman who grabbed my right hand and started applying a henna design to my palm. I said i had no money and told her to stop but she said "it's OK...just a small one for free." I didn't want a half finished flower on my hand so gave her a few seconds just to make the petals even and then i pulled away. Stupid woman then started demanding money and when i said no she smudged the design so it was ruined and i was left with a messy orange mark on my palm. More fool her as she got it all on her beautiful Sari...Karma!

After being constantly hassled in the street i found refuge in a high up cafe and had a lassie (Yoghurt drink) and an Aloo Paratha (potato bread). Yummy! I just sat in away from the heat and watched the world go by.

Because Pushkar is a religious place there were lot's of regular pilgrims as well as tourists which made the most colourful show of people i had ever seen. The small alleyways were filled with pinks, purples, oranges, blues and red's of the bustling ladies. Like a rainbow!

I headed back to Nurse poor Dave for the rest of the afternoon. He really was in the wars and not well at all. Unfortunately for him the power had gone out in the hotel which meant that not only was he minus Air Conditioning but also without a fan! Not nice in +30C especially when your ill!

That evening i went on a Camel Safari (more like a camel ride actually). My Camel was called Romeo and i know why, he was a romancer and loved all the lady camels! I hopped on and when he stood up i realised how high i was! It was a bumpy walk through the town but i felt like a queen and all the locals were waving up to me! We joined a convoy of other camels and headed out of town and into the desert. I saw the most magnificent sunset and was really sad that Dave wasn't there to see it but i took lost of photos to show him. My Camel decided to have a lay down in the sand on his side and then had a roll around which was a sight with his gangly legs all over the place. After the sun had set we headed back into town and i was dropped back at my hotel where i scoffed my face with curry!

Next stop Jodphur....

To see our pics from Pushkar please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/PushkarIndia29thTo31stOctober2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCKPYo7vV4JuTzAE#

New Delhi, India, 26th to 29th October 2011

After a quick one night stop over in Kuala Lumpur we caught our early morning flight to Gandhi airport in Delhi. As usual I was slightly nervous about flying and the fact that there where at least a hundred Muslims (we have had amazing experiences with Muslims in Asia) in full Burk ha on the flight, plus add the fact some people starting yelling in Arabic at the back of the plane as we where taking off! I was not full of confidence at this point. Having said that the flight was really smooth and we landed in Delhi ahead of time which was nice.
We had landed on the day of Diwali, this is basically the biggest Hindu Festival of the year
(kind of their version of Christmas), we arrived at our hotel near the main bazaar and the streets where already completely full of people getting ready to start the celebrations and people exchanged gifts with each other on the streets. We decided to go for a walk to get our bearings and it was so busy that it was a little uncomfortable at first (we had heard some horror stories about Indian streets and pick pockets- which are false) so we decided to head to the roof restaurant of our hotel to escape the hustle and bustle. Once on the roof the full extent of the celebrations unfolded before our eyes - the streets had people partying and celebrating and on the skyline as far as we could see there where fireworks erupting and lighting up the sky - it was a truly special evening and we where lucky to be a part of it. Also that night we saw a few men taking their monkeys for walks on leads around the streets!

After a good nights rest and a great Indian breakfast we hit the streets and explored all the little ally ways around the bazaar. We had heard that India can be difficult to travel independently so we decided to see if a travel agent could offer us a decent tour or package and we didn't have to go far before every man and his dog was offering us a tour! We opted for a government approved travel agent to save any hassle and after some bargaining and discussions we got a decent deal for a private car with a driver and tours and hotels for Rajhastan for 8 days- plus a tour of the ancient sights of Old Delhi. pleased with ourselves we headed for an amazing lunch we both had Thali for 1 pound 20 pence and wandered the streets for the rest of the day.

A day later we headed on our tour of Old Delhi, but no matter where we went we could not escape the heat or dusty haze of the day (which is partly from the desert and partly pollution) but we headed out and the first stop was the giant mosque where we had to cover up and wear clothing given to us by officials (we also had to pay for somebody to watch our flip flops which we where not to happy about, but we got over it. The Mosque was huge and we noticed Delhi's homeless problem right in our faces as people where constantly begging - even when we returned to the car kids would tap on the windows at traffic lights and beg for money! On the way to our next destination the 'Red Fort' we noticed that India is quite old fashioned as all advertisements are hand painted and there are no neon signs on shops but the biggest difference was that the rubbish problem here is huge.

Later we went to Gandhi's resting place and memorial garden before heading to Humayun's Tomb who was a Persian who had a kingdom in and around Delhi about 600 years ago - his tomb was a nice oasis in the middle of the Delhi Chaos.

Later we visited an 800 year old temple complex which was really cool before our final stop at the Lotus Temple. This as you might of guessed is a giant lotus shaped temple, it is also unique as it is open to every faith, which means people can go and pray to which ever God they believe in without prejudice or segregation - which was nice.

We hit the Delhi food scene once again before heading back to pack our stuff for our Rahjastan adventure - our next stop is Pushkar.

To see the pictures from our trip to Delhi please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/NewDelhiIndia26thTo30thOctober2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCN_Tg5mi_ZzBTA#