Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Mui Ne, Vietnam, 6th to 11th of June 2011

The small beach front town of Mui Ne held a few welcome surprises for us, firstly it was a relatively short 6 hour bus journey for starters and after finding out that De Lat was apparently quite similar to Sapa we decided to stay here for a a few days longer as bad weather from the monsoon stopped our plans to get to Phu Quoc Island.
Rather than feeling sorry for ourselves we decided to see what options there where and we found a really cool place to stay called 'Mellow' which is owned by an ex-pat and is home to a kite surfing school and it was only US$10 (or 7 quid) a night. We then set about exploring the town which is mainly just 1 road running from east to west but has some really nice beach front bars and restaurants selling 750ml bottles of beer for 10000dong (30p) and Pho for 30000dong (1 quid) which was the best Leanne has eaten so far, so we where happy to spend a few hours a day treating ourselves and relaxing.
Alex and Holly joined us in Mui Ne and we decided to join the people in the hostel on a night out which turned out to be a really good night until 1 of the guys who runs the hostel decided to be Mr Big and have an attitude to anyone who wasn't staying at the hostel and seemed to take offence to Alex and Holly joining us at Mellow instead of remaining at the hostel (even though they would have their own room for less at Mellow). Alex wasn't having any of his attitude and let's just say that people who have stayed at the hostel have heard about Alex's legendary story of him standing up to the grumpy hostel manager!
We booked a private jeep tour for the 4 of us to visit the famous white and red Sahara style sand dunes of Mui Ne as well as the fishing village and fairy stream - we had a really good day even if it was too hot! We hired quad bikes at the white dunes and paid for a small 9 year old kid to drive us around and off the dunes and marsh land at break neck speeds! but it was amazing and we all wanted to do it again once it was over.
We then continued our experimental eating by going to a fresh seafood restaurant where you pick the freshly caught seafood out of their tanks and they are cooked and BBQ'd for you. I opted for the fish hotpot but bit off a little bit more than I could chew as it was steaks of river fish with the skin and back bone still attached - but it was still pretty tasty.
We also found an amazing burger place that made all kinds of fresh hand made burgers and even though there was a massive storm and the electricity went off they still managed to cook amazing food with the light from their mobile phones until they got the generator up and running.
We knew that the weather was turning against us so we decided to head for Ho Chi Minh City....

To see our pictures from Mui Ne please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/MuiNeVietnam6thJune11thJune2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCKjBl-vi1KCimwE#

Nha Trang, Vietnam, 3rd - 5th June 2011

As we where picked up for our night bus the fun began, as it was 1hour and 20 mins late to start with and then we where made to sit on the bottom and at the back of the bus on the row of 5 sleeper beds and needless to say Leanne was feeling a little claustrophobic!

Nha Trang is apparently home to the best public beach in Vietnam, it is pretty awesome but for me the best beach is still Cau Dai in Hoi An.

After yet another 12 hour bus journey we arrived and where greeted by the usual people offering us the best rates and deals on hotels and taxi's. Fortunately we where only around the corner from our hotel - and this is where the fun began!
A lady led us to our room on the 5th floor, but as soon as we got inside we realised it was not the room we originally booked as it didn't even have any windows! We asked the lady about this and she laughed at us and spoke to another lady in Vietnamese which started to annoy me (as I was already tired from the journey) and she said we couldn't have the right room as the people who where already in there didn't want to check out - I kindly but forcefully pointed out that this was not our problem and told them to ask them to get out of our room! She offered us a stay at another hotel for no extra cost as apparently this hotel was of a higher standard - just let me say that it wasn't so we refused and asked for our money back, but they wouldn't refund us and to cut a long story short we got the correct room at midday and everything from then on was fine.
Just in case you where wondering the hotel is called The Ruby Hotel ( do not stay there).

We then headed to the beach for more chilling out and a few beers before meeting up with Alex and Holly two new friends we met in Hoi An. Later that night we went to an American owned rib house which smoked their own meat (I realise what I have just typed) for 5 hours before cooking it. Needless to say all the guys had amazing chicken and ribs whilst I tucked into a jacket potato and vegetarian quesadilla's, but mine was still pretty awesome! We then went for a few drinks in a bar that we where pretty sure was doubling up as a brothel as there where plenty of sleazy western men and a lot of scantily clad Vietnamese ladies but it was buy 1 get 1 free so we stayed for a couple of drinks.

The next day was pretty much a repeat of the first and we arranged our onward travel, Next stop Mui Ne.
To see our pictures from Nha Trang click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/NaTrangVietnam3rdJune5thJune2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCJe0vJKCjqW0Jg#

Hoi An, Vietnam - 31st May - 3rd June 2011

After a rather quick journey from Hue we arrived in the beautiful Hoi An. Bear in mind that a quick journey for us is anything under 6 hours!
We knew instantly that we had made the right decision to stay put here a few days. Our hotel was just what we needed with an amazing swimming pool. The heat is increasing as we continue down the coast.
Hoi An is the Tailoring capital of the world and most people come here purely come here to get a suit or dress made. Cheap cheap. We were going to get something made but thought it would only be for the sake of it. Plus we would have to carry it forever more!
Not only suits are made though you can have a pair of shoes or boots made to the perfect fit.
The town it self was so gorgeous old colonial buildings which were beautifully maintained. Nice to take a break from looking at falling down uncared for buildings. Most shop and restaurant fronts were wooden with little tin roofs.
The food just continues to get better. We tried a fair few new things. We attempted all of the local delicacies and with Dave's vegetarianism we actually braved a vegan restaurant which served up a surprisingly yummy mushroom and tofu sausage dish.
Been keen cooks we also took up a cooking class which was great fun. We made a traditional Vietnamese salad, fresh spring rolls with shrimp, a lovely garlic sauteed vegetable dish and the famous Hoi An fish grilled in banana leaf. The woman gave Dave the tiniest apron. We hope to do a class in every country.
There are a couple of islands linked to the main town which are reached just by footbridges. Was lovely over there in the evening.
I think the highlight really was the beach. We decided to rent a moped (3quid a day) to get around as the hotel was a bit out of town. We felt so free and thank god that the traffic was a bit calmer! I also created wind and kept us cool however did not prevent burning!
There are 2 main beaches Cau Dai which is full of resorts and tourists and An Bong which is a local beach. We spent many a day on An Bang in a little beach bar that we discovered, drinking beer and fresh lemon juice. It was paradise. We didn't see another person on the beach all day until after 5 when the locals came down to take a dip.
On the way back to the hotel one day we came to a road closed sign where a road was being tarmacked. There were about 20 Vietnamese bikes in front of us and they all just mounted the pavements and carried on. We did the natural thing and did as the locals did! 3km later we were happy to get back on the road!
Next stop Nha Trang. we didn't really want to leave and think this is a place we will definitely come back to in the future :)

Monday, 20 June 2011

Hue, Vietnam, 27th to 30th of May 2011

Q, How many travellers and their backpacks can you fit into a Hyundai Getz taxi?
A, 4 plus the taxi driver!

So we bid another farewell to hanoi after our Halong Bay visit and hastily made it to the train station for another overnight sleeper train, this time to Hue.
Although our carraige seemed nicer than our Sapa one, we then spent the next hour disposing of the cockroaches!
We arrived in Hue after 15 or so hours on the train and were greeted by the usual array of taxi drivers trying to charge us 5 times the price for a short trip to our hotel. Eventually after using my amazing haggling skills and being stubborn we managed to get a taxi to our hotel for the right price.

We checked into the Hong Thien hotel (which I would highly recommend) which is near the backpacker area and it came came complete with a pool and the staff spoke really good English and also seemed to understand English humour (which is very rare in Vietnam) In fact the hotel was so good that we decided to stay an extra night.

So we dumped our bags had a shower and headed out onto the streets of Hue to discover what was going on. We where both pretty hungry after the train and decided to go for lunch and leanne tried the local specialty which was Nem Lui (which is minced pork spring rolls with peanut sauce to you and me) and I have been told it was amazing!

after a little look around the streets we decided to go back to the hotel for a swim to escape the heat and get ready for the evening.

For dinner we went to a really nice vegan restaurant on the Perfume River overlooking the Citadel, and we met out new friend 'Ben' the vegetarian rat who cleaned up under your table after you had finished. We then went for a few beers at the DMZ bar before Leanne tried some homemade Lemon grass ice cream from the 'why not?' bar and she has boldly stated that it is the best ice cream she has ever eaten!

We awoke early to go to the Citadel and visit the tombs of the acient emporers of Vietnam. The Citadel was really cool and a great sight looking over the river back towards the new city. We then headed to a pagoda and home to buddhist monks and more famously was the home of a monk who drove to Saigon and set himself on fire beside his car to protest over the treatment of monks in the 1950's and his car has been returned here to act as a shrine for his sacrifice.
After lunch we headed to 3 tombs of the ancient emperors of Vietnam, apparently 28 of the 29 emperors are buried in the hills around Hue - except for the last emperor who gave the country to Ho Chi Minh and his party (whether he handed it over or it was taken from him I never found out) and then moved to France where he lived the rest of his life.
The tombs themselves are more like massive country estates and parks - most of them full of lakes and pagodas and temples and most have underground palaces where the emperor is laid to rest.
Apart from the 28th Emperor who's tomb is built into the hillside and has 4 platforms with his tomb housed in the top building.

We where really enjoying Hue but it was time to move on so we where picked up from our hotel at 8am and headed to our next stop Hoi An.

To see our Hue pictures please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/HueVietnam28th30thMay2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCK7g26rX9drWMQ#

Halong Bay, Vietnam - 24th May - 27th May 2011

After returning from our Sapa experience we were looking forward to the sun, sea and sand of Halong Bay.
We checked in to the main backpackers in Hanoi which was huge, along with Aaron and Fem a couple of other backpackers we met in Sapa. We booked on a tour for the next day and had a jolly evening with a quiz and some much needed Bun Cha (Flat rice noodles with pork meatballs and a sour lemon dressing = Amazing!).
We set off early, again on a very cramped and hot mini bus to Halong Bay. We boarded the boat and I think in all there were 50 or so people. There was a high demand for the tour we were on and they actually strung 3 huge boats together to accommodate the amount of people.
In the early evening we were paired up in Kayaks and had a heavy 4 km paddle out to a cave. After a few beers and the heat it was a tough task but we did come in first :)!
The cave was dark. Not much else to comment on really. It was this high says Dave who is sitting next to me and not helping on the input of this blog.... I didn't go it as I'm a pussy who seems to be getting more and more claustrophobic in my old age!
After a paddle back to the boat, in the dark i must add we had a scrummy dinner and the drinking games started. I have to admit that it wasn't really our scene. Everyone was so much younger than us and appeared to have been drinking for 4 months solid. We were quite happy in out little group having a giggle and enjoying the moon :)
After very little sleep ( we were in a cabin right next to the bar) we headed out to 'Castaway Island'. This was our own private backpacker island. Luckily not all people came to the island there were maybe about 30 of us.
The island was bliss. Truly a little paradise away from the city. There was a little bamboo hut which had a bar and the dinner tables. All our rooms were little thatched bungalows with open air mattresses covered with mosquito nets. It was very rustic! The toilets and showers were great too. The beach was a stretch of white sand and the sea was almost turquoise.
We set ourselves up with a few beers and had a few dips to keep us nice and cool. However i have to say the water was so warm that after 2 minutes it was no longer refreshing! What a hard life we lead.
Later on in the afternoon we got to try our hand (and aching arms from kayaking) at wake boarding! It was so much fun even though neither off us got up fully we were so close. If only we had more time. We saw a beautiful sunset and filled ourselves on a great BBQ.
Drinking games started up again. The group of people this time round were a lot more relaxed so it was much more fun. We got mouthfuls of rum and faces full of poster paint for breaking left hand drinking rules.
After a long night it was time to leave our island and get back to the city. Covered in green paint and wearing a sombrero we headed back to Hanoi. Next Stop, Hue.

To see our Halong Bay pictures please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/HaLongBayVietnam25thTo27thOfMay2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCJGdtMvDwsuIkwE#

Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Sapa, Vietnam - 20th to 23rd May 2011

So the overnight train was quite the experience. We had a 'Hard Sleeper' which was no where near as bad as it sounds! It was a 6 bearth Cabin. The beds were definatly suited to vietnamese people not the 6ft 2" Dwilly!!
We arrive at out hotel which was a litte skanky but for $10 per night we didn't expect much. The weather was cloudy but the mountains were soon visible once the morning cloud was burnt off. Sapa is at the base of the Himalayas and with rice paddies galore the scenery was truly breathtaking!
Unfortunatly our experince of the town, although very beautiful will remain in our minds for ever, Dave's stomach more so. We took a wrong turn whilst looking for a bar and to our horror we saw a little spotty dog killed and skinned right there on the side of the road. We were both in shock. I thought orignally it was a goat. I know im funny with duck because of Lucky but a dog was just one step to far. This coupled with the Sunday markets where puppies were shoved into sacks and pigs were tied, squeeling, wraped in sacks, to the back of motobikes and driven off to their fate was to much to bear.
Being in a minority area of Vietnam i dont know why we expected any less. We didnt think it would affect us so much. So much so that Dave is now a vegetarian.
We took a tour to the Bac Ha Markets a 3 hour drive on a cramped mini bus in the scorching heat. It was a complete let down, i wouldn't recommend.
Needless to say we were kinda glad to leave, next stop - Halong Bay.

To view our pictures of Sapa please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/SapaVietnam20thTo23rdMay2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCKS6n-WomsqijAE#

Wednesday, 8 June 2011

Hanoi, Vietnam - 16th -20th May 2011

We arrived at a sensible hour at Hanoi airport. We look out in arrivals for our taxi man to our hotel. We saw him but he didnt see us, he did however, after another vietnamese man smacked him in the face with his custom made sign for David Williams to get his attantion. I would say a short drive into Hanoi city but it truly felt like the longest of our lives. I dont know what we expected? Maybe not pristine roads with beautiful flowing traffic but certainly not the hair raising experience. I spent most of the journey behind my hands, peeking every so often through parted fingers to check the status of Dave and Bridger in the back.
We established that there are alot of mopeds in Hanoi. They dominate the roads, however its quite obvious that cars that are in charge. Buses even more so. The first roundabout (if you could call it that) was terrifying. With motos coming from left right and centre and cars veering towards each other from all directions with hands constantly on the horn. I turned to both in the back and told them i loved them. I really thought we may die. The taxi driver laughing turned to me and said "it ok, safe" pah!
We were glad to get to the hotel through all the hussle and busle and were actually releived that it was off the main road and down a quiet little alleyway. Thankfully after our Kl experience we were able to check in there and then. We were on the 4th floor and there was no lift but the staff kindly hoiked our bags up the 5 flights of stairs! We then went to check out the old quater.
As soon as we left we just wanted to go back. Its was nothing short of mad. The pavements were lined with moped after moped and those areas unoccupied were dotted with tiny plastic tables and chairs and little vietnamese women selling there freshly cooked food. The only option was to walk on the road side which was trecherous. I think the thing that mesmorised us the most was the cages attached to the back of tiny 100cc's. If you asked which came first the chicken or the egg we would say the 10 caged chickens first and then the 20 dozen eggs piled high. Followed shortly by ducks, fruit, rice and even a large electric keyboard! We tried to cross the road but gave up after at least 7 minuites of trying.
We found sanctury in an old barber shop as Dave wanted to get his hair cut as he was rather warm. It was cooler than Kl but still hot. Me and Bridger just sat and took it all in. A vietnamese man infront of us was having a rough looking cut throat shave. After releif that his head wouldnt roll to our feet he was rinsed off by the lady. She then promptly put a head tourch on (at this point we didnt know what the hell would happen). She pulled out an extra long cotton bud and started an ear cleaning ritual ewwww!
After a few hours our road crossing skills improved dramatically. We have observed others just walking out into traffic and noted that mopeds just slowed and dodged you. So we gave it a go. We did realiase that it was not the same with cars and buses lol. But we were getting better, there was much less screaming and hand holding from me and much less shouting from dave, at me, for screaming.
On our first evening we met up with Lou Boop for dinner and had a lovely catch up cuppa and ice cream in the very cute and highly recommended 'Hanoi House'. So lovely to see another face from home so glad she took the plunge and decided to travel!
On our second day we were much more confident in the city. We had a walk down to the big lake and had a late breakfast. We spent most of the day getting our bearings in the labyrinth of streets. In the evening we had the oddest experience in the vietnamese water puppet theatre. I can only describe it as 30 minuites of something totally new. I dont know how someone would have even come up with the concept. Its lots of wooden puppets splashing around in a pool of water led by puppeters from behind a curtain. Even though the narration was in Vietnamese we got the jist of the storyline. Lots of singing. Very enjoyable but definaly only needs to be a one time experience.
On our third day me and Bridger took a day trip to Halong bay which is north east of the city. I think we can safely say that 7 hours of driving on a cramped minibus is shit. But the lunch on the boat was awsome, we visited some mega caves and a floating village. More on Halong Bay later.
On our fourth day we decided to visit the mausoleam of Ho Chi Minh (affectionatly called 'Uncle Ho') the famous president of vietnam who reclaimed his country from the French. He is a national treasure and his body was embalmed 40 years ago when he passed away. We were able to view his body. The room was silent and he was laying in a glass box. 6 guards surronded him all with guns. No photography was allowed and we were shuffled out pretty quick. We also visited the museam where Dave was asked by an asian guy to pose for a photo with his wife! haha! I quite like having a celebraty boyfriend! We also had a look around the presidentail palace which was lovely.
The food in Hanoi is unbelivebly amazing with its speciality of 'Hanoi fried fish' we hope it only gets better as we get down. We have to admit Pho (traditional vietnamese noodle soup) for breakfast is growing on us.
Sadly it was time to say goodbye to bridger :( We headed for the sleeper train to our next destination. SAPA.

To view our Hanoi photos please click on the link below;
https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/HanoiVetnam16thTo20thMay2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCOm669OBmcCNxgE#
 
 

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia - 14th to 16th May 2011

So after a nice 12 hour flight from Auckland we arrived at our first stop Kuala Lumpur or KL - after getting a train, having our fingerprints scanned and our visa's approved we collected our bags.
We got a taxi and headed to our hotel (which was about 60kms away) in the city centre.
Once there it was very nice but we had a small problem, our room wouldn't be ready until 3pm!!
We tried to walk around the city for a while but 36 degrees and 90% humidity was too much for me so I sat in the reception and waited in the air con while Leanne and Bridger continued to walk around the place.
After checking in we all had a well needed shower and a nap then hit the streets in search of some local food. We hit the jackpot and ate at a very nice street side restaurant and had a couple of beers - only to find out that beer costs more than a meal in KL!
We walked around the night markets and saw all the fake clothes, bags and football shirts.
Oh did I mention that our hotel used to be a nightclub - strange but true.
After a good nights sleep and a very nice but strange take on a full English breakfast, we then caught the metro to the awesome Petronas towers but it was still way too hot after coming from NZ and it was easily 30 degrees at 8.30am! Next stop was the markets but we where the only white people in sight so had a quick look and took the metro to sentral station (where we saw a brass band playing in the middle of the station), we walked to a very nice and elegently decorated temple.We needed more ringgits so we went to change some U.S. dollars but the money in my pocket was all wet from the humidity so the guys at the bank where trying to dry it on the fans and air conditioners and where having a good laugh about it.
After that we caught the tourist bus to see more of the city as it was way too hot to walk around! Although I wouldn't recommend this, as the buses are outdated and the air con is not as good as they claim - despite this we saw the KL tower, the city square where independence from Britian was declared, the original station, the librar-, which looked like a poor man's version of Sydney opera house and the only piece of natural rain forest left in KL (which is tiny).
After some more nice food and a couple of very expensive beers! we headed for an early night as we where up at 3am to catch our flight.
Next stop Vietnam and Hanoi first
love David and Leanne

to see our KL pics please click on the link below;

https://picasaweb.google.com/112941139607408893724/KualaLumpurMalaysia14thTo16thMay2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-C-aD2stnGTw#